What Kind Of Acne Do I have?

Different Types Of Acne And How To Care For Them

Acne can show up in different ways, and knowing what kind of breakout you are dealing with can make it much easier to choose the right skincare approach. Some spots are simply blocked pores, while others are red, sore and inflamed.

That difference matters. Non-inflamed breakouts such as blackheads and whiteheads often respond well to a consistent home routine, while deeper, painful spots are more likely to need professional advice. It is also worth knowing that some bumps people think are acne, such as milia, are actually something else entirely.

Below is a simple guide to common types of acne and acne-like bumps, along with practical advice on what may help.

Blackheads

How they look: Small dark bumps, usually around the nose, chin and forehead. Despite how they look, blackheads are not dirt trapped in the skin.

What helps: Blackheads form when a pore stays open and becomes clogged with oil and dead skin cells. They usually respond best to regular, gentle exfoliation and products that help keep pores clear. Avoid trying to scrub them away, as rough treatment can make congestion worse.

If your skin feels particularly oily or congested, a purifying treatment such as Dermalogica Clear Start Breakout Clearing Fizz Mask can be a useful extra step alongside a balanced routine. Stubborn blackheads may also benefit from professional extraction.

Whiteheads

How they look: Small white or flesh-coloured bumps under the skin, often with little or no redness.

What helps: Whiteheads happen when a clogged pore closes over. They tend to respond best to leave-on exfoliating products and a routine that helps reduce build-up without stripping the skin. Picking usually makes them angrier and can increase the risk of marks afterwards.

A leave-on exfoliant such as Dermalogica Daily Liquid Peelfoliant 59ml may help improve skin texture and support clearer-looking pores when used consistently and sensibly.

Milia

How they look: Tiny, hard white bumps, often around the eyes, cheeks or forehead. They are usually firmer than whiteheads and do not come to a head.

What helps: Milia are often mistaken for acne, but they are not acne spots. They are small keratin-filled cysts, so they do not behave in quite the same way as whiteheads. Do not squeeze or dig at them, especially around the eye area.

Gentle exfoliation may help improve overall skin texture, but true milia often need professional removal. If you are unsure whether a bump is milia or acne, it is best to have it checked properly.

Papules

How they look: Small red bumps with no visible white centre. They can feel tender, sore or warm to the touch.

What helps: Papules are inflamed spots, so this is the stage where being too aggressive can backfire. Keep your routine simple, avoid over-cleansing, and do not try to squeeze them. Targeted leave-on blemish treatments can be useful for the occasional breakout.

For localised blemishes, Dermalogica Clear Start Breakout Clearing Booster is a practical option to use on breakout-prone areas. If you are getting frequent papules, it is worth reviewing your routine more closely with a skin professional.

Pustules

How they look: Red, inflamed bumps with a visible white or yellow centre. These are often what people think of as classic spots.

What helps: Pustules are similar to papules, but they contain pus. The key is to calm inflammation and avoid picking, as squeezing can push the inflammation deeper and increase the chance of post-spot marks.

A targeted blemish product can be helpful for occasional pustules. If they are widespread, painful, or taking a long time to settle, professional advice is the better route.

Nodules

How they look: Large, deep, solid lumps under the skin. They are often painful and may not have a visible head.

What helps: Nodules sit much deeper in the skin than everyday spots, which means they carry a greater risk of scarring. Home care alone is often not enough.

If you are developing nodules, especially repeatedly, it is best to speak to a GP, dermatologist, or experienced skin professional as early as possible.

Cysts

How they look: Large, deep, inflamed breakouts that can feel soft, sore and swollen. They are one of the more severe forms of acne and can leave long-lasting marks or scars.

What helps: Cystic acne should not be picked or treated aggressively at home. The sooner you get proper advice, the better your chances of reducing inflammation and limiting scarring.

If you think you have cystic acne, seek help from a GP or dermatologist rather than relying on over-the-counter products alone.

When To Seek Extra Help

Blackheads, whiteheads and the odd inflamed breakout can often improve with the right skincare routine and a little consistency. However, if your acne is deep, painful, widespread, leaving marks, or affecting your confidence, it is a good idea to get professional advice sooner rather than later.

If you would like help choosing the right routine for your skin, please complete our skin analysis for complimentary guidance. If your acne is inflamed, persistent, or starting to scar, speak to a GP or dermatologist for medical advice.