What Type Of Acne Do I Have? A Guide To Common Acne Spots

Acne does not always look the same. Understanding the main types of acne spots can help you make better decisions about skincare and recognise when it is time to ask a pharmacist, GP or dermatologist for advice.

The NHS describes six main types of acne spot: blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules, nodules and cysts. You can have more than one type at the same time, and acne can range from a few blocked pores to deeper, painful breakouts. This guide can help you understand the differences, but it cannot diagnose a skin condition.

Blackheads

How they look: Blackheads are small dark or yellowish bumps that commonly appear around areas such as the nose, chin and forehead. The dark colour is not trapped dirt, so trying to scrub it away will not solve the problem.

What to know: A blackhead is an open comedone, where material has built up within a hair follicle while the opening remains exposed. Avoid squeezing or aggressively scrubbing blackheads, as repeated picking can irritate the skin and increase the risk of marks or scarring.

For everyday skincare, a gentle cleansing routine is a sensible starting point. If you prefer a cleanser formulated for younger, oily or breakout-prone skin, Dermalogica Clear Start Breakout Clearing Foaming Wash 177ml contains salicylic acid and is designed to cleanse away excess oil and surface build-up while helping congested-looking pores feel clearer.

Whiteheads

How they look: Whiteheads are small white or skin-coloured bumps. They can feel firmer than blackheads and generally do not empty when squeezed.

What to know: Whiteheads are closed comedones. Rather than trying to extract them yourself, keep skincare straightforward and avoid repeatedly picking or scratching the area.

If you have only mild acne, a pharmacist can advise on appropriate acne treatments. Skincare products can support a comfortable cleansing and moisturising routine, but they should not be presented as a substitute for medicines where treatment is needed.

Papules

How they look: Papules are small raised red bumps that may feel tender or sore. Unlike pustules, they do not have a visible white or yellow centre.

What to know: Papules are inflammatory acne lesions. Avoid squeezing them and try not to respond by washing your face repeatedly or adding several strong exfoliating products at once. NHS and NICE guidance recommends gentle cleansing rather than excessive washing.

For someone who already uses Dermalogica Clear Start and wants a targeted cosmetic step for occasional breakout-prone areas, Dermalogica Clear Start Breakout Clearing Booster 30ml contains salicylic acid and is designed to be applied directly to a blemish or in a thin layer over breakout-prone areas. Stop using it if irritation develops.

Pustules

How they look: Pustules are similar to papules but have a visible white or yellow centre caused by a build-up of pus.

What to know: Picking or squeezing pustules may make the area more irritated and increases the risk of scarring. Keep your routine gentle and give acne treatments time to work rather than changing products every few days.

If you have many papules or pustules, they cover larger areas such as your face, chest or back, or pharmacy treatment has not helped, speak to your GP.

Nodules

How they look: Nodules are large, hard lumps that develop beneath the surface of the skin. They can be painful and may not have a visible head.

What to know: Nodules are deeper acne lesions and have a greater risk of leaving scars than mild comedonal acne. They are not something to squeeze, extract or try to manage solely with stronger cosmetic products.

If you are developing painful nodules, especially repeatedly, speak to your GP. Medical treatment may be needed and referral to a dermatologist may sometimes be appropriate.

Cysts

How they look: Acne cysts are large, pus-filled lesions that develop deeper within the skin. They can be painful and carry a particularly high risk of scarring.

What to know: Cystic or nodulocystic acne needs proper medical assessment. Trying to squeeze deep lesions or repeatedly applying harsh products is not an appropriate substitute for treatment.

If you think you have cystic acne, speak to your GP. NICE recommends specialist referral for nodulocystic acne, and early appropriate treatment is particularly important where acne is beginning to scar.

Milia Are Not Acne

Milia are often mistaken for whiteheads because they appear as tiny white or pearly bumps, commonly around the cheeks or eyelids. They are actually small superficial cysts containing keratin and are not one of the main types of acne spot.

Do not dig at or squeeze milia, particularly around the delicate eye area. If you are unsure whether a persistent bump is milia, acne or something else, having it assessed properly is safer than repeatedly trying to remove it yourself.

Simple Skincare Habits For Acne-Prone Skin

More products do not necessarily mean better results. NICE recommends cleansing acne-prone skin twice daily with a gentle, non-alkaline cleansing product and avoiding oil-based or comedogenic skincare, sunscreen and make-up where possible.

• Cleanse gently rather than repeatedly scrubbing the skin.
• Remove make-up before going to bed.
• Avoid routinely picking or squeezing spots.
• Introduce active skincare gradually rather than layering several strong products together.
• Use a suitable moisturiser if your skin becomes dry or uncomfortable.
• Remember that proper acne treatment can take time, so do not expect an overnight change.

When Should You Get Help With Acne?

If you only have a few blackheads, whiteheads or occasional spots, a pharmacist can advise you about suitable over-the-counter acne treatments. If these do not help, or your acne becomes more extensive, medical advice is the next step.

Speak to your GP if you have deep or painful spots, nodules or cysts, acne that is leaving scars, acne that is not improving with appropriate treatment, or acne that is having a significant effect on how you feel about yourself. Acne can affect mental wellbeing as well as the skin, and that is a valid reason to ask for help.

If you mainly need help choosing a simple skincare routine, you can complete our complimentary online skin analysis for personalised product guidance from John And Ginger. Our skincare guidance is designed to help with your home routine and does not replace diagnosis or medical acne treatment from a pharmacist, GP or dermatologist.